Nicola Formichetti: the Art of Deconstruction

Between the time of the confirmation of his departure and the publication of this article, you certainly had time to digest the two news about Nicola Formichetti. So yes, the famous stylist can no longer claim to be the creative director of Mugler. The shock of this news has caused the fashion world in turmoil. Whether you agree or not, it was certain that the passage of Formichetti at Mugler could not last. Not that it would not work over time, but because Nicola has this need to destroy everything to better rebuild his work, himself. And he said it best with us when he told TWELV why is fashion so interesting to him: “What interests me about fashion is to destroy it in a way and then to recreate it – probably something I got from English punk subcultures.”

Reviving Mugler through his unique vision, with livestreams of his shows, backstage access, major means used in shows and collections, the panda-loving designer has placed himself amongst the most influential creative directors of the industry in only two years. It was therefore not surprising that after the announcement of his departure from Mugler, we have learned that Diesel would associate with him for a project called DieselReboot. “We’re ripping apart everything to re-build something bigger”, said Formichetti about his new title as the artistic director of the brand founded by Renzo Rosso.

The plan to “mobilize an emerging global creative community to collaborate with him”, through the  exciting Tumblr – dieselreboot.tumblr.com -, perfectly sums up what he told us last year in our last issue: “I collaborate with everyone on the web”. In the pure logic of things, we would be tempted to believe that he will continue his work on democratizing fashion, and involve as many people around the world to his world and his work. “I'm not an elitist so I want to share what I'm doing with everyone”.

The legend-in-the-making designer has still a lot of things to show us. So let's take a sit and enjoy what he is planning for us in the next coming weeks...

Published on TwelvMag.com, on April, 09th, 2013.

HE OR SHE?

Last week, I was walking on the street and a little girl came to me, asking me if I was a girl or a boy... It wasn't the first time and it won't be the last time either that I will have to answer to this question. I like fashion pieces that blur the line between male and female, I like to erase the bender when it comes to my fashion. That's why I decided to give you a few ideas of how to look androgynous this Spring/Summer with some great and minimal pieces... and that's for male and female.

1. Rad By Rad Hourani Black Jersey Geometric Top

2. T By Alexander Wang Black Lightweight Leather Shorts

3. Silent By Damir Doma Black Cotton Pique And Textured Leather Combat Boots

4. Givenchy Brown Wooden Magnetized Shark Earring

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Keep It Simple

So Spring is here but the sun seems not to be ready to shine here in Paris: the sky is grey, it's still a little bit cold... this kind of weather makes me want to stay quite simple in the way I dress myself. Sometimes it feels good not trying to be flamboyant... That is why I have chosen an ideal selection for this sullen Spring time. Enjoy!

1. Kant Long Sweater by Damir Doma

2. White 511 Slim Fit Jeans by Levi's

3. Black High Top Trainers by Vivienne Westwood

4. Rock Print Packable Shopper by Marc by Marc Jacobs

1. Thujades Heavy Jersey Sweater by Damir Doma

2. Greek Eye Jean by Vivienne Westwood

3. Ultragirl X by Vivienne Westwood for Melissa

4. Classic Q Hillier Hobo by Marc by Marc Jacobs

Untitled

While its former designer grounds in the shade, a group of designers are now at the head of the famous Maison Martin Margiela, their identities are carefully kept secret. Now that the brand belongs to the Renzo Rosso group, the mysterious designers had to head into a more commercial, less conceptual direction. And that’s what they did perfectly with their Fall/Winter Ready-To-Wear 2012/2013 collection. The designer added day-wear consciousness to Margiela’s imaginary attitude. Styled by Eric Waroll, edited by Daniel Haim and photographed by Hervé Coutin, this new fashion editorial contains some of the codes of Maison Martin Margiela: the mystery, the “factory” touch, the disguised simplicity–these are the elements that make this editorial special, just like the aura exuding from each collection of Maison Martin Margiela.

Credits

Creative Direction & Photography by Hervé Coutin

Edited by by Daniel Haim

Styled by Eric Waroll

Hair by Henry Olivier, HairByOlivier

Makeup by Aziza MakeUp

Modelling by Celine Coreau at Nathalie Models

Hair : HairByOlivier

Make up : Aziza MakeUp

CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL EDITORIAL

ON BLOGINITY.COM

PUNK: CHAOS TO CHAOS

The past few days, everyone has decided to blog/tweet/tumblr/facebook their own definition of what's punk, thanks to the renewed interest in the movement with the recent Met Gala and the Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition. What is fun in reading an average person's own perception of the punk movement on the Internet is that the same references are all and always the same: Sex Pistols, Malcom McLaren, Vivienne Westwood, the safety pins... It seems like its definition stops right there. If you have watched the livestream of the MET Gala the other day, you'd probably remember the same bullshit was repeated over and over again by people full of ignorance on the subject. And no, Goo Goo Dolls is not punk. At all.

Of course, the punk movement was dependent on music and popular culture, social violence and rejected what characterized the past. Back in the early seventies, if someone told you you're a punk, it meant literally that you're a thug, a rogue. Yeah... a thug. A thug who had the genius idea a few years later to use safety pins, razor blades, torn t-shirts and make it non only a fashion statement but a social one too.  Although this mythical accessorizing quickly falls into a disgusting caricature nowadays, the punk style was at that time integral of two things: its music and its social ideas. In addition to the Sex Pistols, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Subway Sect or even Eddie and the Hot Rods, all these bands had something in common, apart from a decadent style of dress: a rejection of shared values, a rejection ​​of a society they had nothing more to expect from. The style flowing from this movement was beautifully captured at the Sex shop, then managed by Malcom McLaren and Vivienne Westwood, deep in King's Road. Basically, punk music and its fashion were a subversive weapon, a visual and sonorous way to tell people "this is who I am and I don't give a fuck of your opinion, and I'm going to do what I want". 

Do it yourself. These three words best characterize what punk is/was: a willingness to do everything by yourself, whether to start your own record label, make your own clothes and accessories, or just make your place in a world governed by a blind adherence to traditional values without being insulted of... thug. But now that we live in a society where everything and every style has already been done before, punk is just a package of rotten ideas, ridiculous stereotypes and terribly wrong truths (pink is not really the color of punk... I mean, really...). Punk actually lived fast and died young. Now it only survives through its style and the world is finally ready to celebrate it. Are you?

Vivienne Westwood is never a fashion "faux-pas."

Yesterday evening, everyone had their eyes on the Met Gala. This year was particularly interesting because the theme of the New York event was Punk. Indeed, from May, 9th through August, 14th, the Metropolitan Museum of Art will examine punk's impact on high fashion. The exhibition, called "Punk: Chaos to Couture", will include pieces of designers such as Hussein Chalayan, Ann Demeulemeester, Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto and naturally punk survivor Vivienne Westwood.

A special red-carpet livestream was broadcasted yesterday, the two hosts were both so annoying and although Vivienne Westwood gave to the exhibition many of her legendary pieces from her early years, they didn't give a shit of what she had to say even if she insisted by saying she would like to add something... What a bunch of tossers.

I could go on and on about Westwood, I am not into labels but if I had to choose one brand to fill my closet with, it would be Vivienne Westwood. I just like very much what she does... Wearing a total Vivienne Westwood look is never a faux-pas. So many of us will probably never go to the Met Gala, but it won't stop us from going to a party with a punk theme someday. And if I had to go to a punk party, I would definitely wear Westwood and here's my choice...

 

1. Lollipop cardigan - Gold Label Knitwear
2. Classic Orb t-shirt black
3. Bordeaux Summer Wool Samurai trousers

4. Rocking Horse Gold Relaxed Black
5. Diamante Armour Ring Gold/Topaz
6. Belt Ring Gold
7. Armour Ring Gold

 

1. Tits Square t-shirt

2. Giant Tartan Racing trousers

3. The Clomper

4. New Skull Ring Silver

5. Armour Ring Silver

6. Knuckleduster Ring Silver

7. Large Greek Eye Holdall

Pictures © VivienneWestwood.co.uk

Pete Burns: his hair, a hive of honey bees...

For those who know me well, they all know that I love the ex-leader of the British band Dead Or Alive: Pete Burns. Maybe his name is totally unknown for you, but you just have to listen to his most famous hit single, You Spin Me Round (Like A Record), to remember him. If you do not know him for his music, maybe you know him for his participation in Celebrity Big Brother when he shocked the UK with his hilarious comments about Jodie Marsh... Anyway, I really appreciate his work as a singer and I really like his style. 

So the other day, I received a package from London: it contained a beautiful and never-seen-before photograph of Pete Burns, and a hand-written poem by himself. Do you know what does it mean? That Pete fucking Burns knows I exist, that I breath, that I am a human being! That was my hysterical minute of the day... So, I naturally had to show you my new pieces that I can add to my collection of vintage stuffs. I know that there are some Pete Burns fans out there, so I just wanted to share a scan of the poem so everyone can read it...

Thank you Pete!